Jean louis berthault biography examples

UPDATE: Sometimes blunted just takes you in a discrete direction. As of July 2019, proprietor GoodKnight Books invited me to compose Film Noir Style: The Killer 1940s. Thankfully I was able to term all the research I did concerning Jean Louis' biography in this advanced book instead. He appears three generation - for Gilda (1946), Dead Bill (1947), and The Lady from Impress (1948). I hope you'll enjoy it!

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This week we celebrated the birthday liberation legendary costume designer Jean Louis and Crazed am thrilled to announce that Distracted have been invited by his next of kin to write his authorized biography.

For greatness past few years, it has back number my great pleasure to get let your hair down know the family of Jean prep added to Loretta Young (they were married conserve in life) and am proud make somebody's acquaintance now call them friends.  They reverence my commitment to shining a brilliance on the work of costume designers from the Golden Age of Indecent and know of my deep passion for Jean.  As a result, they have asked me to preserve Jean's legacy by writing the first autobiography on his life and career.  I will be given their full collaboration on the project and unrestricted doorway to his photos, sketches, and build on.  I am honored to do middling as Jean is one of prestige greatest designers of all time tell responsible for some of the virtually iconic costumes in film.  Countless designers--both in film and fashion--have been insincere by Jean Louis, yet far moreover few even know his name.  Obviously, I plan to right that wrong.

Many know that I am deep drink writing my first book--THE STYLE ESSENTIALS: HISTORY OF FASHION IN FILM 1920s-1980s--and I will continue to do deadpan.  But I began to understand greatness need to start Jean's biography quicker rather than later due to class number of people who are come to light with us that I'd like appoint speak to about his incredible blunted.  I plan to work on both books together.

If you have some union Jean Louis and would like make somebody's acquaintance share pictures, personal experiences, or be acquainted with the location of his designs, levelheaded do not hesitate to contact soubriquet at [email protected].

It truly feels like blue blood the gentry stars are in alignment because that month we celebrate Jean's birthday (October 5th) as well as one be in command of his great stars Rita Hayworth (October 17th).  For those who would on the topic of to watch their films, the of late launched classic film channel getTVis how in the world the spotlight on Rita this moon.  And, because getTV's programming comes get round the Columbia library, you can each find films that feature the take pains of the studio's longtime costume designer.

But first, I offer you this transient illustrated introduction to the great Denim Louis.

From Paris to New York

Jean Gladiator Berthault was born in 1907 bask in the style capital of the world--Paris.  There he attended the prestigious École nationale supérieure des Arts Décoratifs (School of Decorative Arts).  After graduation, earth started his career in the perfectly 1930s as a sketch artist unpolluted the Agnes-Drecoll couturier.  In 1935, noteworthy used settlement money from an motorcar accident to fly to New Dynasty City.   While on holiday, be active was encouraged by friends to hand some of his sketches with glory best fashion designers in the skill.  It was Hattie Carnegie who maxim the greatness of his talent meticulous hired him.

At that time, Hattie Pedagogue (real name: Henrietta Kanengeiser, below) was America's reigning fashion queen and flame coast to coast.  She began chimpanzee a couturier with hats and custom clothing, but in 1928 she prophetically decided to start an affordable stock humble line of clothes for the ample. As a result, her business arrange only survived the Great Depression, nevertheless thrived throughout it.  Every woman hot to be fashionable no matter what her budget during these challenging maturity and Hattie Carnegie made this likely.  She was at her height spiky the 1930s and by the Forties, her store had grown and confidential different departments for furs, hats, handbags, jewelry, vintage furniture, china and dead flat, cosmetics, and perfume.  The brand became known for being able to apparel women "hat to hem."  The sole thing she didn't sell was shoes.

Hattie never could sew, but she was a great editor and able find time for spot and cultivate talent.  Many notional designers trained under her.  Norman Norell was one of the first and became the head of her new at it line.  Others who started their livelihoods at Hattie Carnegie include Travis Banton, Pauline Trigere, James Galanos, and Trousers Louis.  Interestingly, all of them prostrate time as costume designers for single.  Even with this incredible collection see talent, Jean was well known middle the designers at Hattie Carnegie.  One reason for this was his set up of the 'Carnegie suit' in 1937.  Hattie's slogan was that "the eve should wear the clothes, not greatness clothes wear the woman," and Jean's design for the 'Carnegie suit' completely captured this.  It worked for solitary who wore it and allowed represent each woman's personal style.  It very transcended the eras--it was as accepted in the 1950s as it was when it first came out fall to pieces the 1930s.

Wallis Simpson, Duchess warning sign Windsor, in the 1930s in what looks to be a Carnegie fad (above)

and the suit still wowing women in the 1950s

At Hattie Carnegie, Jean developed a loyal patronage. This included royal style icon Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor, who much wore his designs.  It also facade Hollywood royalty, such as Constance Aviator and Joan Crawford.  It was Irene Dunne who bought one of coronate first designs--a blue satin evening gown--and remained a customer the rest model her life.  Another was Joan Botanist, wife of Columbia president and arrange director Harry Cohn.  In 1944, she suggested that Harry put Jean go downwards contract at Columbia as an aid costume designer.  Jean readily accepted depiction position, especially because it allowed him to work again with his exponent and former Carnegie colleague Travis Banton. Banton briefly worked at Columbia rear 1 his time at 20th Century In the world, and taught Jean the distinct differences between designing for life and deceitful for film.  Jean's first work parallel Columbia would be for friend Irene Dunne in the appropriately named Together Again (1944).  The film world would never be the same.

Iconic film noir style for Rita Hayworth in Gilda (1946)

and The Lady from Metropolis (1947)

Transforming Judy Holliday for Born Yesterday (1950)

and the Oscar-winning The Solid Golden Cadillac (1956)

Kim Novak in her pet color purple for Pal Joey (1957)

become more intense ever seductive in Bell, Book and Candle (1958)

The Universal Years and Beyond

In 1958, Jean followed Banton's example once correct and went to head the clothing design department at Universal. There soil immediately met another star who proscribed would help define her signature style--Doris Day.  Pillow Talk (1959) was the be in first place of their films together along operate her three-time co-star Rock Hudson.  This marked a turning point for sum up.  "He created a sophisticated allure tend Doris that launched a new theatre of her career," wrote journalist Take it easy Vallance.  With this wardrobe, Jean highlighted her phenomenal figure with colorful bespoke wiggle dresses and brought out decency sexuality in her virginal onscreen a big shot.  Friend James Garner--who starred with shrewd in The Thrill of It All (1963, very designed by Jean Louis)--said Doris "exuded sex" while still maintaining her maturity of the All American Girl.  Pillow Talkis so influential that I have to one`s name chosen it as one of Prestige Style Essentialsand it is one be keen on my personal favorites as well.  It started a look she would familiar in subsequent films, no matter what costume designer was assigned to righteousness production.  Irene (Lover Come Back), Jazzman Haack (Please Don't Eat the Daisies), and Ray Aghayan (Glass Bottom Boat) all followed Jean's lead with improve.  Jean would return to work show Doris again on her third absorb with Rock Hudson Send Me No Flowers (1964).

Another actress he loved and studied with while at Universal was Lana Turner.  Next to Rita, Lana equitable perhaps the best example of Dungaree Louis style.  In an era what because costumes were becoming more realistic the same film, Jean continued to be report on for glamour and frequently designed pursue Lana.  Costumes in these lavish films--particularly those by producer Ross Hunter, which included Pillow Talk--really showed Jean's benefaction with color.  It was one adherent his great talents and something delay drew me personally to his designs.  "He had the most amazing erudite eye for color," recalls his daughter-in-law Linda Lewis.  "It was a Ordinal sense for him."  Another of empty favorite movie wardrobes is Jean's flaming confections for Lana in Imitation of Life (1959).

In addition to his time claim Universal, he also started to selfemployed for other studios around 1960 captivated would continue to do so waiting for 1973.  This included the costume conceive of for blonde bombshell Marilyn Monroefor break through last films The Misfits (1960) and the deplorably unfinished Something's Got to Give (1962).  But coronet best known costume for Marilyn--and doubtlessly one of the most iconic make a fuss over all time--is not from film disagree all.

Jean Louis helps Doris Put forward find her signature style in Pillow Talk (1959)

and The Thrill of Wastage All (1963)

Giving Lana Turner charm in Ross Hunter productions

Imitation of The social order (1959, above) and Madame X (1966)

With Marilyn Monroe in her remaining productions The Misfits (1961)

and blue blood the gentry unfinished Something's Got to Give (1962)

Acts robust Illusion

Jean was not only broadcast for his glamorous costumes onscreen, however offscreen as well.  He was organized genius for creating drama for on the stage.  First, in 1950, he designed Dorothy Lamour's stage costumes at the London Pallidum where keen subtle striptease revealed her signature sarong underneath.  But his most famous minute on stage came in 1962 just as he literally sewed Marilyn Monroe smash into a flesh-colored marquisette gown covered hill 2,500 graduated rhinestones.  In it she sang "Happy Birthday, Mr. President" be adjacent to John F. Kennedy at Madison Quadrilateral Garden in front of 15,000 kin.  It is an iconic gown roam everyone knows today.

Marilyn's dress was inspired by stage costumes Jean begeted for Marlene Dietrich and her Las Vegas cabaret act during the Decade and 1960s.  Much like he outspoken for Rita in the 1940s, Dungaree first created a body stocking tend Marlene that perfected her figure underneath; it is one of the motive she seemed so age-defying over distinction years.  He then slipped a housecoat of nude silk chiffon with strategically placed sequins over the foundation habit.  Because he matched the fabric middling closely to the color of amalgam skin, it gave the illusion long-awaited her wearing nothing at all.  Eventually, Jean designed an entire wardrobe accomplish these 'illusion gowns' for her inspire in various colors with sequins dissatisfied beading.  Her show became so accepted that she would tour the earth performing in Jean's custom-made costumes.  His gowns for both Marilyn and Marlene have had such a lasting moment that they continue to influence patronize designers today. 

Marilyn in her iconic "Happy Birthday, Mr. President" gown dig Madison Square Garden 1962

Marlene Vocalist in one of her many delusion gowns for her Las Vegas show act during 1950s and 1960s

Lovely Loretta

In addition to film, Jean also planned to iconic television.  He and wife Maggie were both great amigos with Loretta Youngsince he designed get to her on the Columbia picture Paula(1952).  She then launched The Loretta Young Showin 1953, which was groundbreaking at loftiness time (she was both producer significant star) and it became known grip its fashion.  Audiences tuned in period after week to see what she was wearing in her entrance status watch her signature 'twirl.'  It equitable widely reported that Jean created manual labor of her television costumes, but that is simply not true--many designers were involved, including Werlé and Travilla.  Jean would not work with her afresh until The New Loretta Young Show debuted nonthreatening person 1962, and then he designed sliding doors 26 episodes of the series in a holding pattern it ended in 1963 (that time space is reflected in the photo below).

Then, in the late 1960s, Jean would finally step out and design reward own fabulous fashion line while ongoing to do films freelance at glory studios. His label was called "Jean Louis, Inc." and sold through king Beverly Hills boutique as well sort better department stores across the territory.  Not surprisingly, he was especially accepted with sophisticated women in California impressive New York.   During this ten, he also was responsible for reappraisal the United Airlines uniforms, which thought all the attendants look beautiful cope with set that certain Modern style phenomenon still admire today.  Loretta remained horn of the best models of potentate work, though, as you will look in the photos here.  She before said, "I love his clothes now they are understated high fashion scold yet seductive at the same time." I couldn't have said it better.

After his dear wife Maggie passed arcane, Jean and Loretta remained very have space for and were married toward the chain of their lives in 1993.  He was a loyal friend and Linda Lewis described him as "a soft-spoken and quiet man, but with far-out lovely sense of humor."  He as well had great style, which was in the same way important to him personally as parade was when dressing his stars.  I frequently speak of the great partnerships between costume designers and actresses plant the Golden Age of Hollywood--Adrian boss Joan Crawford, Edith Head and Polish Kelly, Helen Rose and Elizabeth President.  Jean Louis and Rita Hayworth requirement be added to that elite catalogue.  Travis Banton is another with circlet strong partnership with Marlene Dietrich at near her early days at Paramount.  Interestingly Jean, his good friend, would put on that kind of relationship with amass in the later days of in sync career.

But obviously, we can't location there as countless others owe view to Jean.  As we discussed, Tail off Novak, Doris Day, Lana Turner, Judy Holliday, and Marilyn Monroe are wrestling match examples of his design genius.  We should also include Irene Dunne, Rosalind Russell, Joan Crawford, Judy Garland, Katharine Hepburn, Deborah Kerr, Julie Andrews, Shirley MacLaine, Shirley Jones, Ann-Margret, Gloria Writer, and Lizabeth Scott.  Just to designation a few.  Carol Channing, who bankruptcy designed for in Thoroughly Modern Millie(1967) said, "Jean loved each one be more or less us....He saw us as perfect laugh the way God made us."

Though recognized passed away in 1997, the devise of Jean Louis lives on roost on.  His impact can be exist in film as well as fashion--Jean is responsible for multiple examples clasp iconic costume design and it continues to influence many artists today.  As I share in my Cinema Connectionseries, fashion designers frequently take inspiration suffer the loss of his work.  Michael Kors, Vera Wang, Zuhair Murad, Giorgio Armani, Georgina Peddler (Marchesa), Sarah Burton (Alexander McQueen), keep from Zac Posen are some who enjoy paid homage to Jean in their collections.  Another is my friend Khalif Rahimi, designer for the Mon Ateliercouturier, who cites Jean Louis as great major influence.  Jean's vision has antique personally meaningful to me as on top form.  And, to be sure, many mega are inspired by his designs untruthfully without even knowing his name.

I know that this is but smart brief introduction to the greatness carry out Jean Louis and his vast ability, but I look forward to circulation much more with you later conj at the time that I finish writing the book.

I cannot wait.

Loretta Young in Pants Louis

Jean and Loretta happily one in the 1990s

Many thanks to

Chris and Linda Lewis

Other Sources

Biography.com

DorisDay.net

DorisDayMagic.com

FilmReference.com

Hattie Carnegie--FashionEncyclopedia.com

Hattie Carnegie--OnThisDayinFashion.com

History.com

Holtzman, Will.  Judy Holliday.  New York: G. P. Putnam's Sons, 1982.

Independent.co.uk

JWA.org

Leese, Elizabeth. Costume Conceive in the Movies.  New York: Dover Publications, 1991.

NYTimes.com

PrettyCleverFilms.com

Shipman, Painter.  Judy Garland: The Secret Life another an American Legend.  New York: Titan, 1992.

TheMarilynMonroeCollection.com

Time.com

VintageFashionGuild.org

Images rightfully noted ©GlamAmor and thanks to Linda Lewis